CRIMES OF FASHION

What becomes a legend most? Try outlawed outfits

Brooklyn politician Eric Adams’ US$20,000 campaign against low-slung jeans tosses yet another garment to the infamous heap of clothing that authorities have deemed inappropriate. But he may have unwittingly helped extend the trend’s popularity. Similar campaigns in the past merely drew attention to the article in question, immediately transforming it into a statement piece and then a requisite fashion item. Let’s rifle through the cast-off bin.

The Zoot Suit
Provenance: A roomy, exaggerated silhouette defines the zoot suit comprising a pair of high-waisted, wide-legged and tight-cuffed trousers and a long coat with wide lapels and padded shoulders. It was popular among Latin immigrants in the US, particularly the Mexicans, and jazz musicians in the late 1930s and 1940s.
Transition: The LA murder of a young Latino fuelled tension between Mexican-Americans and some members of the US Navy eventually erupting into a string of clashes that became known as the Zoot Suit Riots in 1943. Mexican-Americans and their sympathisers were mostly zoot-suited, prompting official ban on the garment.
Reboot: Zoots resurfaced briefly on MTV in the 1990s but did not survive for long, but its baggy profile and flamboyant details continue to influence designers today.
Famously Worn by: Flashy fops Prince and The Revolution, Jim Carrey in The Mask, Lou Bega, Jan Lynch in Glee

Leather Jacket
Provenance: Aviation and motoring made leather jackets ubiquitous in the early 20th century, but the modern version as we know it was introduced in the 1940s as part of military uniform. Strength, durability and practicality – think aerodynamic design and multiple zip pockets, the latter an invention of American manufacturer Schott – are common among all styles, while details like tab collar (biker) or shearling lining (bomber) are specific to intended usage.
Transition: In the eyes of authorities, however, they mean trouble – a perception stirred up by youth delinquency in 1950s USA – when it was banned from the school system – and bike gang violence in the late 1960s.
Reboot: By the time The Fonz wore one in Happy Days, leather jacket was a short-hand for cool. By now a classic, it reappears on the runway regularly.
Famously worn by: Outsiders Marlon Brando, James Dean, Elvis, Indiana Jones, Wolverine

Steel-toed Doc Martens
Provenance: Dr Klaus Maertens designed a pair of the boots for himself in 1945 after injuring his foot while skiing. Made with car tyre but cushioned with air, his invention caught on and the brand was eventually launched. Today, there’s a DM for every occasion in different colours, finishes and styles.
Transition: Steel-toed Doc Martens are closely associated with late 1960s youth group Skinheads comprising working class English boys and Jamaican immigrants who sported close cropped hair. The bi-racial group ironically degenerated into a racist gang; white supremacists and football hooligans were among those identified with it. Its uniform of stovepipe jeans, suspenders and DMs were eventually outlawed.
Reboot: As ska, the skinhead’s music of choice, became popular throughout the world, its fans appropriated the skinhead look – without irony. Celebrities have also taken to wearing DMs.
Famously worn by: Sid Vicious, Pete Tonwshend, Kurt Cobain, The Pope <150 words>

Hoodies
Provenance: Although the hood has been part of monastic and cold weather garments throughout the world – from monks’ cowl robe to hooded riding cape – the hooded jacket we know today likely begot its shape and construction the Siberian deerskin parka. Intended as protection from harsh weather, its fabrication evolved to include zip-front and pullover styles.
Transition: To avoid detection by omnipresent surveillance cameras, hooligans, thugs and criminals hide their faces in hoods of jackets. In some high crime urban areas hoodies are often prohibited.
Reboot: Designers have taken out weatherproofing from a hoodie’s multiple tasks. The all year wearable comes in sleeveless styles, some in gossamer fabrics, for summer.
Famously worn by: Eminem (sports hoodie), Missy Elliott (sleeves), Rihanna (boxing hoodie robe)